Fall brings us Halloween and Halloween brings us pumpkins. We like having pumpkins around, but I'm not always a fan of carving them. Mostly because the weather up here (Colorado) is cold and snowy at this time of year. Hell it almost always snows ON Halloween.
This year I decided to just draw a design on it. I went online and found a angry cat design and printed it out. I cut it out and traced the design onto my pumpkin.
Looks good outside too. I drew over it a few times to make sure you could see it pretty well.
Nice way to have your Halloween feel with out the mess. Works for me!

Sunday, October 28, 2012
Organize with Style
I have already made a collage paper magazine holder.
I also have 4 other tan holders. I need yet another one, so I thought I would make another paper one to even it out.
This time I wanted to do a solid design instead of a collage effect. I found scrapbook paper at Hobby Lobby that was the perfect theme for my bedroom and the color fit. I bought 3 pieces of the paper and that was more than enough. One sheet per side and another for the back and front sections. I picked up a bottle of Mod Podge paper so that it be more specific.
I also used my roller that I used in my coaster project to keep bubbles from forming. (You can also spray water on the paper before applying it to keep that from happening, just don't soak it with water or its very easy to tear.) Take the magazine holder and lay it down on the back of the paper so you can trace out the side.
Cut along the trace lines. Once its cut out put it back against the side to be sure it doesn't over lap any were. If you are happy with the cut out put a coat of Mod Podge on the side of the magazine holder and carefully place the paper as to not realign it again. Use the roller (or whatever tool you have) to flat the paper out and remove any air bubbles you might have. Wait for the first applique to dry (15 minutes) before applying another coat over the paper. You will want to coat it at least 3 times, always letting it dry completely before doing another coat.
Trace the back the same way you did the side whenever you are ready to move on. Apply the paper the same way, waiting for the Mod Podge to dry before applying another coat over the paper.
Repeat the same steps for the other side of the magazine holder. Once you are ready to do the front you the paper left over from doing the back. You will have to cut put two long strips for the right and left side of the description plate. Be sure to follow the pattern of the paper and how you have it placed on the other sides. Then cut out two sections for the top and bottom section around the description plate. Make sure to measure the spaces so that you don't have gaps around the description plate.
Once you have it coated to your satisfaction you can use the Mod Podge acrylic sealer to put that finished touch to your project. It protects your paper better than just leaving it alone.
I also have 4 other tan holders. I need yet another one, so I thought I would make another paper one to even it out.
This time I wanted to do a solid design instead of a collage effect. I found scrapbook paper at Hobby Lobby that was the perfect theme for my bedroom and the color fit. I bought 3 pieces of the paper and that was more than enough. One sheet per side and another for the back and front sections. I picked up a bottle of Mod Podge paper so that it be more specific.
I also used my roller that I used in my coaster project to keep bubbles from forming. (You can also spray water on the paper before applying it to keep that from happening, just don't soak it with water or its very easy to tear.) Take the magazine holder and lay it down on the back of the paper so you can trace out the side.
Cut along the trace lines. Once its cut out put it back against the side to be sure it doesn't over lap any were. If you are happy with the cut out put a coat of Mod Podge on the side of the magazine holder and carefully place the paper as to not realign it again. Use the roller (or whatever tool you have) to flat the paper out and remove any air bubbles you might have. Wait for the first applique to dry (15 minutes) before applying another coat over the paper. You will want to coat it at least 3 times, always letting it dry completely before doing another coat.
Trace the back the same way you did the side whenever you are ready to move on. Apply the paper the same way, waiting for the Mod Podge to dry before applying another coat over the paper.
Repeat the same steps for the other side of the magazine holder. Once you are ready to do the front you the paper left over from doing the back. You will have to cut put two long strips for the right and left side of the description plate. Be sure to follow the pattern of the paper and how you have it placed on the other sides. Then cut out two sections for the top and bottom section around the description plate. Make sure to measure the spaces so that you don't have gaps around the description plate.
Once you have it coated to your satisfaction you can use the Mod Podge acrylic sealer to put that finished touch to your project. It protects your paper better than just leaving it alone.
Hidden in plain sight.
In the last post I showed you how to make your own water proof coasters. Since I made those sets (12 in all) for my living room I wanted to have a container for them. In the process of figuring out how I wanted to contain them I made a set of 6 for my bedroom, so I wouldn't ruin my bedroom furniture.
I found a wood box that fit the coasters perfectly and has a magnetic closure. I didn't want it to be plain so I sanded it down and picked out a color that fit each rooms's themes. (yes I have themes for my rooms)
Since my living room has a country irish theme I went with green. I painted the box, but it look boring just painted. So I found a wood flower detail accent and painted that as well. I also painted a coat of glaze on the box and the detail accent to seal the paint color.
Once the glaze dried I worked on my other box that would hold my bedroom coasters. My bedroom has a vintage french royal theme, so I went a little more classic. I painted the wood accent in a metallic sky blue. Those also got a coat of glaze to seal the colors.
Once they were both dried I sprayed them with my Mod Podge acrlyic sealer to protect it even more.
I didn't paint the inside, but it still looks great to me. The coasters fit great, event the 12 I made for the living room. (No I do NOT need that many, but I was testing out this project, so I did a basic pattern and then did a group of coasters in the theme I wanted. Why waste them?)
I found a wood box that fit the coasters perfectly and has a magnetic closure. I didn't want it to be plain so I sanded it down and picked out a color that fit each rooms's themes. (yes I have themes for my rooms)
Since my living room has a country irish theme I went with green. I painted the box, but it look boring just painted. So I found a wood flower detail accent and painted that as well. I also painted a coat of glaze on the box and the detail accent to seal the paint color.
Once the glaze dried I worked on my other box that would hold my bedroom coasters. My bedroom has a vintage french royal theme, so I went a little more classic. I painted the wood accent in a metallic sky blue. Those also got a coat of glaze to seal the colors.
Once they were both dried I sprayed them with my Mod Podge acrlyic sealer to protect it even more.
I didn't paint the inside, but it still looks great to me. The coasters fit great, event the 12 I made for the living room. (No I do NOT need that many, but I was testing out this project, so I did a basic pattern and then did a group of coasters in the theme I wanted. Why waste them?)
Wednesday, September 12, 2012
Coaster's that Fit You.
I was never able to find a set of coasters for the theme of the living room I once had. I couldn't find anything really fitting for the Irish country theme. So I thought I might try and make a set of my own. I did a trail set of 4 to see if it would come out, or even work well.
They turned out pretty well. I think I might keep them and use them for the kitchen or something.
The only hardship I had was trying to find Mod Podge Outdoors. It wasn't at Hobby Lobby or Michaels, or even Jo-Anne. I finally just ordered it to be shipped to the Walmart in our town. You don't have to use the outdoor version if you don't want, but then you need to make sure you use a waterproofing sealer.
You can use stone coasters or the cork ones that I chose.
Pick out the paper you would like to use and if there is a specific section you would like then make sure to center the coaster on that image. Take a sheet and flip it over and trace the outline of the coaster. Then cut it out. I cut inward a little to make sure I wouldn't have to worry about folding it over if it was too long.
Take the coaster and coak it with the mod podge. Then lay the paper cut out on top of the coaster. Take a roller and spread out the paper to get rid of the air bubbles.
Once you are sure you have gotten all the air bubbles out, coat over the paper. (I rolled over it again to make sure the new coat didn't make more air bubbles, but that is entirely up to you.) Let it dry for about 20 to 25 minutes. I did several coats and then let it dry for a full 24 hours.
I then took it out to the garage (to let it be aired out) and sprayed it along all the edges and then on the top. I let that dry about about 30 minutes and then coated it again. I left them out in the garage to air out, as the sealer can be rather smelly. Once I felt the smell was gone I put them back inside. That was my first set. I have since finished the real set of 6.
Might want to give it a try yourself. They work very well.
They turned out pretty well. I think I might keep them and use them for the kitchen or something.
The only hardship I had was trying to find Mod Podge Outdoors. It wasn't at Hobby Lobby or Michaels, or even Jo-Anne. I finally just ordered it to be shipped to the Walmart in our town. You don't have to use the outdoor version if you don't want, but then you need to make sure you use a waterproofing sealer.
You can use stone coasters or the cork ones that I chose.
Pick out the paper you would like to use and if there is a specific section you would like then make sure to center the coaster on that image. Take a sheet and flip it over and trace the outline of the coaster. Then cut it out. I cut inward a little to make sure I wouldn't have to worry about folding it over if it was too long.
Take the coaster and coak it with the mod podge. Then lay the paper cut out on top of the coaster. Take a roller and spread out the paper to get rid of the air bubbles.
Once you are sure you have gotten all the air bubbles out, coat over the paper. (I rolled over it again to make sure the new coat didn't make more air bubbles, but that is entirely up to you.) Let it dry for about 20 to 25 minutes. I did several coats and then let it dry for a full 24 hours.
I then took it out to the garage (to let it be aired out) and sprayed it along all the edges and then on the top. I let that dry about about 30 minutes and then coated it again. I left them out in the garage to air out, as the sealer can be rather smelly. Once I felt the smell was gone I put them back inside. That was my first set. I have since finished the real set of 6.
Might want to give it a try yourself. They work very well.
Thursday, August 2, 2012
Under Water Pearls
Supplies:
*Pearl pendant
*Fresh water pearl tear drops
*sea blue square side gems
* Fresh water 'drop' pearls
*Bright blue oval gems
*bead wire (.18mm in silver)
*jump rings (2)
*clamp beads (3) #1
*needle nose pliers
*clamp pliers
*wire cutters
*Measuring tape
*Lobster clasp and toggle
*Tip 1- Plan It Out* As with all jewelry designs I laid out the design on my bead board before I started doing anything. Had to try out different style gem stones to see which one matched best, as I did not buy any of the beads at the same time. This also includes making sure the clasp, clamp beads, jump rings, and so on match the color pallet.
*Tip 2- Measure* Always measure for each project to make sure the lengths that fit best are correct. This is important when making items for other people. Once you have done them enough times you will know the required lengths and can skip this step.
Steps
- Measure out the length of bead wire you will need to fit comfortably around your neck and sit at the length you like. Then give yourself about 2 inches to loop back through at the ends. Use wire cutters to cut correct length.
- Take a pair of need nose pliers and open a jump ring. Slide the jump ring onto the end of the clasp and close the jump ring.
- Take a clamp and thread it on the bead wire; then slide the bead wire through the jump ring attached to the clasp. Loop the bead wire back through the clamp bead and then use the clamp pliers to clamp it the bead in place. This should allow for a loop to hold the one end in place.
*Tip 3- Tight Loops* Try and keep the loop as tight as possible to keep from having a big gap. This can be done by holding one end of the bead wire with a needle nose pliers and then taking the other end of the wire and pulling it tighter. Keeping it tight keeps the wire from rubbing. This is also why using a jump ring to attach to the clasp is important, as the wire attached to the jump ring is not going to move around much if its pulled tight.
- Thread on the beads and gems in the order of the design you picked ahead of time. (see *Tip 1*)
My design is tear drop pearl, bright blue oval gem, 3 drop pearls (in rotating angle), bright blue oval gem, square sided gem, tear drop pearl, square sided gem, and bright blue oval gem. The only time that changes if when I have reached the middle of the necklace (which I measured and marked ahead of time) where I did square sided gem, oval gem, and then pendant. After that point I reversed the order to mirror the other side.
- Continue this until you have the length you determined earlier. (see *Tip 2* )
*Suggestion 1* Doing one clamp bead at the end to make sure everything stays tight and then another to create the loop is NOT required. You can choose to use only one clamp bead, just be sure to keep the beads together tightly enough to not end up with large gaps when you wear it. I do it for both ease and strength. Beginners can do this until they get better at re-threading the closure clamp.
*Tip 4 - Consider Material and Purpose* You must always be aware of the type of give and strength your supplies have or you could end up with breaks, scrapping, and no flexibility. The heavier the wire the less bend and flexibility it has. String the beads too tightly together and some will rub together and break. String them too tightly and the beads will bunch and not bend well around your wrist. Some times you need to allow for "give room" with bracelets in order to get the bracelet to wrap. This can also mean you should use seed beads to give flex room in between certain types of stones, gems, rocks, and so on.
- Once you have finished your design for the length, slide on a clamp and use the clamp pliers to secure it in place. (see *Suggestion 1* and *Tip 4* ) (I almost always do this step just to secure my design and tightness of the beads.)
- Take another clamp bead and thread it on first, then slide on the other jump ring, then thread the wire back through the clamp. Now tighten the wire until you have a small loop. Be sure that the jump ring stays in the loop you create. Use the clamp pliers to close the clamp when you have the loop the size you want. (see *Tip 3* )
- Take a wire cutters and clip off the extra wire as close as possible to the last clamp bead. If the wire is bend-able enough and the bead holes are big enough you can thread the extra wire back through the beads instead of cutting it.
- Take a needle nose pliers and open the jump ring on the end you just finished and slide on the other end of the clasp (Or length of chain if you want to use that instead. This will allow for different tightness around the wrist. This can be very helpful if you didn't follow *Tip 2* and its not long enough to go all the way around the wrist.) and close the jump ring with the needle nose pliers.
That will finish off the necklace.
For some reason I had a considerable amount of left over pearls and gems. With this earring set I did something a little different.
Supplies:
*Fresh water 'drop' pearls (left overs)
*Square side blue gems (left overs)
*Bright blue oval gems (left overs)
*2 1/2 inch length of light silver chain (2)
*Head pins (8)
*Earring 'type' (2)
*Silver wire
*needle nose pliers
*Round nose plier
*wire cutters
*Suggestion 2* When finishing the eye loop you should think ahead to whether you plan to use a jump ring to connect the eye loop, or if you are going to connect straight to the eye loop. If you are going to use a jump ring you can go ahead and close the eye loop. If you aren't going to use a jump ring then you should leave the eye loop open a little in order to connect it to what you want.
- Take a head pin and slide on the gems you have left over that you would like to use in whatever order you have decided. (see *Tip 1*)
- Use the needle nose pliers to bend the head pin at the top of the last gem.
- Use the round nose pliers to create the eye loop. (see *Suggestion 2*)
- Use the wire cutters to remove the extra of the head pin.
- Repeat first 4 steps 8 times, 4 for the square side gems and 4 for the blue oval gems.
- Take the silver wire and cut 6 strips about the length of you pinkie finger.
- Take one strip of wire and thread it through one 'drop' pearl. Pull both ends together (creating a triangle with the tip at the top where the wire ends connect).
- Use the round nose pliers to create a eye loop like you would with a head pin. Instead of cutting off the extra you will wrap the wire around the bottom of the eye loop and just above the pearl.
- Repeat the last step 5 more times.
- Use the needle nose pliers to open the loop on the end of the earring hook. Slide the 1st link of the silver chain on. Close the loop.
- Repeat this step for the other earring.
- Use the needle nose pliers to slide one of the square side gem eye loops onto the 1st link in silver chain. Then use pliers to close the loop.
- Use the needle nose pliers to slide one of the blue oval gem eye loops onto the 4th link in the silver chain. Then use the pliers to close the loop.
- Use the needle nose pliers to slide one of the square side gem eye loops onto the 7th link in the silver chain. Then use the pliers to close the loop.
- Use the needle nose pliers to slide one of the blue oval gem eye loops onto the 10th (or last) link in the silver chain. Then use the pliers to close the loop.
- Repeat the last 4 steps for the other earring.
- Use the needle nose pliers to pull open the 2nd link of the chain. Slide on the pearl eye loop onto the open link. Then use pliers to close the link.
- Use the needle nose pliers to pull open the 6th link of the chain. Slide on the pearl eye loop onto the open link. Then use pliers to close the link.
- Use the needle nose pliers to pull open the 8th link of the chain. Slide on the pearl eye loop onto the open link. Then use pliers to close the link.
- Repeat the last 3 steps for the other earring.
This will finish the earring set.
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